Philippines Manilla - Mindoro (Sablayan, Pandan Island & Apo Reef) - Moalboal (Panagsama Beach), Siquidor (Apo Island) - Dumaguete Itinerary

The Philippines! What a nation.  This was the 4th visit for Kate and I, yet I was yet to blog about it.  Our latest 3 week trip was definitely blog worthy, and I hope to help a few of you out there who are planning similar itineraries.  The Philippines is notoriously difficult to travel from 'a to b' with any degree of certainty regarding transport times owing to the nature of island hoping and generally poor infrastructure. I often find that even the locals are uncertain about what can and can't be done because they may not use public transport and may not go the same route as backpackers would.  Therefore, I'm hoping to make it easier for readers to understand the logistics of this amazing route, to cut out any headaches and enable you to book accommodation and remove any anxiety regarding logistics.

Keep in mind, that we flew to Manila from Hong Kong as the flights are significantly cheaper, you may find it easier or cheaper to fly to Cebu or mix up the order of destinations.

We initially spent a couple of nights relaxing in a nice Manila hotel, there are plenty of blogs and information out there about Manila, if that's what you want to see.  We planned on doing a bit more of a circuit so this is what I ultimately blogged about, with our itinerary as follows:

Manila - To chill and wait for our flight to Mindoro (note only 3 flights per week from Manila)

Sablayan, Mindoro Island - Hop off point for those looking to dive the famous Apo Reef as we did (the second largest reef after the Great Barrier Reef).  We stayed in the municipality of Sablayan, from where it's easy to visit the tranquil Pandan Island. Mindoro is an island well-worth exploring in itself.  Legitimate travellers will be rewarded with unbelievably friendly locals, authentic cultural experiences and off-the beaten track hospitality.    Recommended minimum stay 3 days, 5 days if also diving Apo reef and visiting Pandan Island.  

Manila to Sablayan:

Take a flight from Manila to San Jose airport.  Once you arrive at San Jose airport, take a tricycle (it's a very small airport and drivers wait outside) and tell them you wish to take a bus to Sablayan.  They'll take to you the (small) local bus station (15 mins drive, probably charging a foreigner fee of 50 Pesos Per Person with luggage).  The bus is around 1.5 -2 hours and will cost around 140 Pesos per person, tell the driver you wish to get off in Sablayan.  It's a pretty causal approach to getting off the bus, so it can be difficult to determine where to get off with locals stopping the driver quite consistently.  The thing to note is that there are two terminals, if you stay at Adventure Camp Beach resort, you'll want the first major terminal and from there you can take a tricycle.  If staying in the main town (inland), you'll want the second terminal.  

Moalboal, Cebu (note around 4 hours from Cebu City) - Famous for being home to shoals of sardines which can be found a short-swim from the coastline, as a result quite touristic but you can also reap the comforts which come from this. Minimum stay 2 days.

Mindoro to Cebu : 

Firstly fly to Cebu from Mindoro, take a tricycle to the bus terminal then take your bus back to San Jose airport (just reverse your previous journey).  

Cebu Airport (Mactan) to Moalboal.  If you have the money and just wanna get there, you can expect to pay around 2,500 for a private driver (note: you can get much cheaper doing the reverse route privately as many cars just want to get something for their way back to Cebu city).  Otherwise, here's the best cost to time efficient method:

1. From Cebu airport take a taxi to the South Bus Terminal.  Take a cheaper white taxi (not a yellow airport taxi) and ensure they use the meter (they may try to quote a high fee like they did with us).  It's quite a drive, around 40 mins depending on traffic, and should cost under 400 pesos, not too bad especially if you're sharing.  

Note: If you're really looking to save, there is a cheap (around 30 pesos) 'Mybus' that takes you from the airport downtown (every 30 mins - disembark at Park Mall then travel to South Bus Terminal via jeepney) but not really worth trying to save a few pesos here, especially if you have luggage, in my opinion.

From The South Bus terminal, find the Air Conditioned Yellow Ceres bus travelling to Moalboal (just have a walk around and ask, you might have to wait for an AC bus and non-AC buses will will try to get your business!).  The buses are frequent, around every 30-40 mins and it will take you around 3.5 hours to reach Moalboal.  You pay in cash on the bus (someone will collect) it was 140 pesos per person. Once you get to Moalboal, there will be tricycle drivers who will be happy to take you to your guest house.  We stayed near Panagsama Beach as this is where the sardines are located (lots of tourists pay to travel here from white beach on snorkel trips when there's really no need).  If you're staying in this area too, get off at the second bus stop in Moalboal (the one near McDonald's is the first stop, so just take the one after that).  Tricycles to this area shouldn't cost more than 150 pesos (tourist prices of course).

Siquijor Island - Famous locally for its black magic and witchcraft, but for us it was the most pleasantly surprising destination on the itinerary notably for marine sanctuaries, waterfalls, local hospitality, value and dining.  Can also dive Apo island from here (not to be confused with Apo Reef!). Minimum stay 3 days, 4 if doing day trip (snorkling/diving) to Apo Island but the longer the better! 

Moalboal to Siquijor: 

Now don't be afraid :D  there are boats, a bus and tricycles a-plenty, but it's really not difficult when you know, and soon you will!  Just make sure you're on your way not much later than 9am to give yourself a nice relaxed journey 

1. From your accommodation in Moalboal, take a tricycle to the bus stop in Moalboal town where you can get the yellow Ceres bus to Bato.  These are relatively frequent (every 40 mins or so), with AC and non-AC options (just take whatever comes first) and should cost less than 100 pesos. 

2.  From the Ceres bus terminal in Bato, you will need to take a tricycle to Liloan Port (it is not the port you will drive past shortly before getting off, do not be fooled into thinking you can walk it!). You'll have to haggle a bit like we did among the cluster of drivers waiting, but we paid 60 pesos in the end for 2 people (these days I can never be arsed to haggle over another 20 pesos or so).

3. From Liloan Port, there is an hourly ferry that goes to Sibulan Port which takes around 25 minutes and is under 100 pesos PP.

4. From Sibulan Port, take a tricycle to Dumaguete Port.  We paid 150 pesos for two people with luggage but could have haggled down.  Was happy to pay that in the end as it is a good 20 minute or more drive with traffic.  You can also go via the cheaper, jeepney option, but may have to wait and less comfortable, especially with luggage.

5. From Dumaguete Port, take another ferry to Siquijor Port. More basic, non-AC ferries are frequent with 2 or three private boats offering transit.  You may wish to seek out the OceanJet service which has a more comfortable, AC service, but this wasn't operating when we visited (though they assured us they would be up and running again in a couple of weeks).  

6. When you arrive in Siquijor Port, you will be greeted by a flurry of tricycle drivers and many, many, people trying to loan you motorbikes.  If you're travelling light, you can consider renting one for around 250 pesos per day there and then.  If you're taking luggage, then you probably need a tricycle.  There fares on the island are fixed, there is a board with what you can expect to pay to the left where all the tricycles are parked slightly up the hill.  Or just look at this picture:

Dumaguete - Popular & vibrant spot for locals and tourists alike.  Lots of nice restaurants and possible also to dive Apo Island from here (best if staying in dive resort accommodation). Minimum stay 2 days.