Tokyo - Japan

All of our Japan itinerary, hotel and travel information can be downloaded here.

Day 3

Today we travelled to Toyko.  Osaka was a great city, but from a tourist's perspective without the gift of time, one full day was enough as there is a lot to see elsewhere.  Our 7-day JR Pass became active today, so we took the subway to Shin-Osaka and from there reserved our seats at the JR Office for the train to Tokyo station. 

Japanese trains are comfortable and efficient, and the friendliness and mutual respect between staff and commuter is something we could all learn from.  The train conductor will even bow to the patrons whenever leaving the carriage!  Unless there is an ‘accident’ (there were a fair few of these) trains will generally leave to the minute that they are scheduled to do so.   It is possible to use the JR Pass without reserving a seat provided that the train has non-reserved carriages, they sometimes do they sometimes don’t.  Of course, there wouldn’t be a guarantee of getting a seat.  

Japanese Trains Rock

Japanese culture is very non-confrontational, so you may find that even if you accidentally board a ‘Reserved Only’ train you probably won’t have any problems.  There was one instance for example where it took a while and a lot of sweating for the assistant at the platform to word, in the least confrontational way, that the woman at the information desk was incorrect to inform us we could board a certain train without reserved seats, but he said we could get on it anyway. 

View of Mt. Fuji on train from Osaka to Tokyo

The ride to Tokyo was a speedy 2.5 hours, meaning we still had plenty of time to enjoy the day.  After checking in at our budget but well-located hotel (Horidome Villa), we headed out to Asakusa to visit Sensoji temple via Nakamise street.  This shopping street marks the approach to the temple and whilst touristic, has a nice vibrancy with many tourists, both foreign and Japanese, opting to buy or rent kimonos which lends to the atmosphere.  There are lots of stores to buy souvenir trinkets or snacks and you can even rent man-powered rickshaws to take you through in style if you wish.  The drivers look really friendly, but we would feel a bit weird being literally carted around by a person! 

If you’re looking to get something to eat, there are also some nice side-streets in the area where you can get some more traditional food and a drink in you.  

Nakamise Street

Sensoji is a nice example of a Buddhist temple and it’s also the oldest in Tokyo.  You’ll be rubbing shoulders with a lot of tourists and it therefore doesn’t have the relaxing experience of some temples you could opt to visit, but it’s worth seeing and you can experience the traditional architecture with views of the modern Tokyo skyline in the background. 

Sensoji temple

The evening was all about Akihabara.  Just one metro stop from our hotel, this area is alive with amusement arcades, restaurants, anime and games shops, electronic stores and more.  When I say and more I really mean it, as it is even home to the biggest porno shop you’ll probably ever see.  I’ll leave it to your imagination, but I’m not sure if your imagination will suffice to conjure up the range of items required to fill 5 floors of debauchery!

Vending machines were everywhere

The arcades were not quite what I was picturing.   Whilst they have some of the more traditional style arcades consisting mostly of the ‘candy-grabber’ move the claw and pick up a prize format, the main pull was the more gambling style machines that are seemingly irresistible to a portion of middle-aged Japanese men.  The sound coming from these smoky rooms of row upon row of machines with their intense music competing for non-existent audible space was borderline intolerable.  The games looked like a combination of luck and skill, some involved guiding metal balls into holes that are bought from the machines directly.  The players are all completely in the zone, staring intently at their own machine and hoping to get lucky.  The only ladies to be seen were those keeping the beverages coming. 

Arcade in Akihabara

During our adventures around Akihabara we found a store dedicated to collectible cards.  Floor upon floor of individual game cards were on sale ranging in price from the inexpensive to extortionate.  On the upper floors groups of men and boys were gathered around tables either playing or trading their cards.  Again, not a woman in sight other than the caricatured and scantily clad anime figures featured on the front of most of the cards.  The gamers seemed really happy and it felt more comfortable to see people interacting with each other, rather than with machines.

Card games are pretty popular here

I’m certain that there was more to see, from other traveler’s pictures there seems to be shops selling retro games and consoles which I would have loved to have found but we had no joy.  That night, we had our first taste of sushi in Japan at a nearby restaurant. Whilst we didn’t catch the English name, we got a photo of it, and if you’re in the area it’s hard to miss.  Very reasonable prices and good service.  A lot of fun and recommended if you’re in the area.    

Sushi restaurant in Akihabara

Oh yes

Day 4

Today got off to a good start with some brunch in a downstairs beer hall.  These are often smoky places (strange in the otherwise strictly no smoking public areas of Japan) which serve up draft beer and usually good value lunch specials.  The food was excellent, and I even unwittingly received British style bacon which was an absolute result.  

Japan 1 - China 0

Following this we visited Meiji, which is Tokyo's most famous Shinto shrine located in a 200-acre forest in Shibuya.  We had perfect weather, it was fresh and sunny meaning that we got dapples of sunlight filtering through the canopy of the trees as we meandered along the spacious graveled paths.  

Forrest near Meiji Shrine

The walk is a massive highlight, considering that you are in one of the top 10 most populous cities in the world you can get such a vast sense of space just minutes from a busy subway platform.  Good weather is a must as it is all outdoors, but you would need to wrap up warm as we did in February.  At the main shrine there are people offering up coins and clapping for their prayers to be answered, as well as some leaving their wishes in the forms of notes tied up and left for the higher powers to grant.   

Later we went to the city center of Shibuya and witnessed the Shibuya crossing, Tokyo’s answer to Piccadilly Circus.  The people are so well behaved here, it’s rare you will see individuals cross even the smallest of quiet streets without the little green man’s permission.  You wouldn’t want to cross prematurely here however.  There is a big expanse separating commuter’s vehicles from every direction as pedestrians eagerly wait the opportunity to cross. It is fun to stand and watch the lights change at least once and see people merge from all angles and try to negotiate their own paths. 

Shibuya Crossing - Tokyo

We were greeted by a robot in a shop window and after a brief interaction waved goodbye and went to see if we could get a feel for a ‘Robot Restaurant’ with mixed reviews.  Whilst we opted not to part with our cash for the high-ticket price and what seemed to be a tourist trap, but the area was really cool.  We ultimately came across ‘Blackhole’, a ‘yakiniku’ or grilled/BBQ meat restaurant.  The service here was good as was the quality of the food.  A little bit of a splurge but still cheaper that home, you can order sensibly and have great quality food and superb dining experience.

Happy Robot

Black Hole - Tokyo

Day 5

Close to our accommodation (around 15 minutes via public transport) is the Tsukiji Fish Market where we went for breakfast.  Now, if you are hardcore you can get up early (or stay out, as some say you need to be there early as 2am) for a chance to register to be a part of the famous tuna auction.  To be honest, we didn’t fancy it and perhaps we missed a trick, we’ll never know but it seems like a big gamble for something you might not ultimately be able to take part in.  

Tsukiji is actually a wholesale fish market

Anyhoo we went there early(ish) to get our fill of raw fish.  There are lots of streetside restaurants on the approach to the market, which is actually wholesale supplier, to sample the local catch of the day.  There are plenty of options and even a couple of good coffee shops.  The place is great to look around even if you’re not a fan of sushi, after scanning up and down a few streets we found an indoor sushi bar to park ourselves at and sample the delights.  Proper yum.

Enjoying oysters at Tsukiji fish market

Fishmonger on the approach to Tsukiji market

Sushi at the inner-market near Tsukiji

A short walk from the Tsukiji fish market will get you to the Tokyo Kabukiza Theater.  This traditional Japanese theater was originally constructed in 1889, but has been rebuilt more times than Robert Downey, Jr’s career.  When I initially investigated purchasing tickets online prior to departing for Japan, they weren’t yet available.  When I checked again, all the cheap tickets had sold out! This lead me to do a little more research, as I didn’t want to miss out on this key aspect of Japanese culture.  I ultimately came across this gem of a page, ‘Tokyo Cheapo’, which among other useful tidbits explains how it is possible to takes your change and purchase tickets for an individual act on the day of the performance.  Well that was totally fine with me, as 1.5 to 2 hours is plenty to get a taster of the show (rather than buying full day tickets which are likely for multiple acts spread over an entire day, equating to 6+ hours of performance).  In a nutshell you need to check out performance times, rock up, queue if need be and buy your ticket at a fraction of the price online.

Tokyo's Kabukiza Theater

We were in luck and arrived 5 minutes prior to the next performance with tickets still available.  We were also seated (online it mentioned standing but I couldn’t see anyone doing this).  Although we were at the back, there wasn’t a major impact on the viewing experience.  The show itself was great if not a little confusing.  We forgot to get the translation machines so we sat back and absorbed the weird and wonderful world of kabuki which involves elabourate costumes, questionable intonations and impromptu giggles from the audience.  It was bizarrely good and would recommend to anyone who has the time to visit.

No photographs were allowed inside the theater.  Here's one.

The previous day we had booked tickets to watch a show called “Panasonic presents WA (Wonder Japan Experience)”.  We didn’t quite know what to expect and we certainly weren’t prepared for what turned out to be the best show we had ever seen.  After a busy day at the fish market and the theater, we didn’t have time for a sit down dinner, so we made the most of the good quality food and readily available microwave at a 7/11 near the show venue. 

Kate washing down her microwave carbonara

Two microwaved carbonaras and Asahi dry beers later, there we were being lead into a funky waiting room with lockers to put our stuff into.  

I don’t want to go into too much detail as it’s the kind of show that sucks you in and trips you up, there are plenty of surprises.  Without offering up any spoilers, make sure you get floor tickets (rather than seated VIP) and get ready to be dazzled.  The performers in the show are of the highest quality, and the organization of the entire thing is epic with stage managers and staff ensuring that the experience is interactive and safe (considering the audience are often part of the stage).  

So much fun!

You are constantly engaged with something to look at in all directions, and the variation and boldness of the performances is out of this world.  I can’t recommend it enough and if you have the chance to go you will undoubtedly leave with a smile on your face.  It’s also great for children as well as adults who want to party.  Very bizarre, just go see it for yourself.

Perhaps that's why it's called WA!!!!?